Hair is like a snowflake, each one unique, which is why there are so many different brands and formulas to choose from. Knowing which product will work best for specific afro-textured hair can be a daunting task even for Chatter’s most knowledgeable employees.
Simply Washing isn't the Answer
Your scalp knows you more than you know yourself, and the more you wash it the more it will release oils to replace the oils lost. Washing hair too much isn’t in your favor. You can train your scalp to skip washes but that’s a subject we can talk about later. Your hair has naturally open cuticles, which means it’s high porosity and prone to frizz compared to straight hair, which is why you need a specific game plan to keep it healthy.
Let’s Talk Washing
Before we start, it is important to understand that the scalp is skin! So let’s think of scalp care as highly specialized skin care.
Frequency is Key
Wash every 1–3 weeks depending upon how oily or dirty your scalp gets. Your texture determines frequency. For a starting point, consider washing once per week for fine hair, every 2 weeks for medium hair, and every 3 weeks for thick hair. There is no hard-fast rule. You know your hair and scalp best, so don’t be scared to experiment.
If you feel like you need to wash more often, use a co-wash, better known as a cleansing conditioner. It’s great for every day or every other day use, but please keep in mind, a co-wash is not a 2-in-1 conditioner/shampoo. Once a week, you must use a regular shampoo for a deep cleaning. If you only use co-wash to wash your hair, you’re sealing in dirt. Your scalp requires the same care as your face; you wouldn't just put lotion on a dirty face, right?
Short Term Solution: Dry Shampoos
You can skip washes by using a dry shampoo after you wash and dry your hair, then every evening. If you use dry shampoos regularly, be sure not to skip multiple days. Clarifying shampoos are your friend. Use every 3 weeks (or every 2 months if you're not washing your hair weekly) to strip away the buildup from products, the minerals from water and plain old dirt.
The Balancing Act: Hydration + Repair
Your hair doesn't just need moisture, it needs both Protein and Moisture. Think of protein as your hair’s "bricks" and moisture as the "mortar" that keeps them together. If Repair (Protein). If it feels brittle, focus on Hydration (Moisture). For a Pro Tip, look for a combo of shampoo and conditioner that provides both. This your hair feels mushy, you need a combination that closes your cuticles and prevents frizz. Just remember, a little frizz is not necessarily a bad thing, as it creates volume. We want our cuticles to be neither too open nor too closed. Balance is everything.
Hair Masks & Deep Conditioning
When you use a Deep Conditioner or Mask, check the bottle! Every brand is different. Some masks need to be applied after the shampoo, whereas others need to be applied after the conditioner. Fun Fact: Joico masks actually stop working after the time indicated on the bottle. If you want it to work longer, you have to wash it out and reapply!
The "Night Shift"
Always sleep with a satin or silk bonnet or pillow! Cotton pillowcases suck the moisture right out of your hair and cause frizz. When detangling your hair, never detangle dry! Use a wide-tooth comb or a detangling brush while the hair is slippery with conditioner in the shower. Wash with warm water to open your cuticles but rinse with cool water to seal everything in at the end.
I know that feels like a lot but your hair is worth it! If you’re feeling overwhelmed, frett not, and come on down to your local Chatters locations to continue this conversation with our experienced stylist. We’ve seen it all and are always happy to help!
